most public utilities, they pay their employees to new stock offerings. also big three, oops, one auto makers used to, however, their stock would be somewhat useless at this time, GE, motorola, although these only offer it to upper management, most ALL traded companies in japan, they try to keep their employees happy, westinghouse, but only to upper management, also, most of the defense contractors, but is varies as to who gets the options...
Well I'll mention the upside first. At face value QROPS offer huge benefits particularly in terms of the flexibility that you posess as a pension holder. In particular, you can avoid a compulsory annuity purchase; you can retain the pension fund value until death and pass that on. These are major benefits, but do discuss your specific circumstances with a registered advisor.
On the subject of risks and downsides, really there are none specific to QROPS that are not present in any other Pension scheme. As qualfiying and recognised schemes, they must follow UK pension rules for a reasonable period of time which is normally about 5 years of somebody being non resident from the UK.
There are potentially charges associates with the transfer itself that you should think about carefully and discuss with your advisor. These might be as little as 0%; they can be as high as several percentage points depending on the type of scheme and type of investment that the individual pension holder wants to do. Sometimes you will get transfer penalties as well from your existing provider.
The trade off between charges and penalties on the one hand, and potential benefits on the other is the bit you really need your advisor to go through with you in detail. If the numbers don't stack up, then perhaps QROPS are not right for you at the moment.
Potentially, you could argue that the government might "move the goal posts" in a few years if they realise that these schemes offer too many tax advantages. To a limited extent, this is already happending, as aggressive financial services companies tend to stretch the boundaries of the spirit of the legislation, whilst not breaching the letter of the law.
I’ve already seen, for example, that a QROPS scheme in Singapore had its authorisation status removed by Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs, so they authorities are keeping a close eye on what’s actually going on and if they see anything they don’t like, or they feel there’s abuse of the actual system, HMRC will readily stop further transfers of pension arrangements to a scheme or even a whole jurisdiction.
But with places that are closer to home - the Channel Islands, the Isle of Man - there are very good relationships between the legislative bodies, and the Financial Services Commissions, which keeps everything in check. HMRC is keeping a close eye on QROPS and any abuse but if they are operated within the framework of the rules that are actually there, there should be no sort of major changes in the long-term. Again, one to talk to your advisor about.
If a QROPS schemes has been closed to new transfers, then HMRC have been very good to prior transferees, and have said that people who are already in those schemes can carry on benefiting. But if a fund member has taken money out of a pension which perhaps they wouldn’t have been entitled to under the UK scheme, the Revenue does have the ultimate facility to impose sanction and tax charges and those will be a liability which would fall on the individual which really they would have to pay or the pension scheme would have to pay in the very near future.
It depends. They all come from the Treasury Department. For instance, I live in Indiana, and my back payments came from Kansas City. If I were you, I would just call SS and ask them.
You don't pay a fixed % your tax is calculated in different tax brackets minus your tax credits and deductions. You can use the calculator to estimate your tax liability.
http://www.ey.com/CA/en/Services/Tax/Tax…
What is the company match for your 401K? Most have 6%, so always match what your employer does since it is free money.
Here is a suggestion that I followed from the advice from my father. Do you have automatic deposits for your paychecks in your company? If so, have them set up $100 per pay period to go into a savings account. IF you cant afford $100, then $50 per pay period. Now when this money is deposited, don't touch your savings unless you have to. Most people will live on what they have in their checking accounts, so if you leave the savings alone, then you will be saving more for just an emergency.
Get your credit card paid down if possible and try to calculate a certain amount to charge per month and once you get to that amount, stay home and leave your credit cards there so wont be tempted.
Now here is an important lesson I learned from my father. When you get your next pay raise, put some of the additional amount into your savings. So say for instance you get a 5% raise. After taxes you have an extra $50 in your check. Now increase your savings for another $20 and keep the remaining $30 in your account. Since in most cases the 1st month with the extra money you find you have money left over due to the raise, but by 6 months, you find you are living on the extra money and wonder how you ever lived on the prior amount. So the reason for the automatic deposit is that you don't see that money and ultimately save more.
good luck
5% is better than most people with their 401K.
As a single person, you should be able to put aside 20% of your income. I'd shoot for 1/3rd 401K, 1/3rd Roth and 1/3rd regular savings. That way if you are out of work, you won't touch the 401K and if you have an emergency, you can use the Roth and avoid a tax bill.
5% is a great start, but I suggest putting an additional 5% (at least) into your emergency fund each month. The larger your emergency fund is, the more financial options you will have in the future.
I learned how to increase my savings by creating a free 5G Plan account. I suggest you do the same. It will give you lots of ways to increase your savings, spend less, and earn a little more. You can find it at 5gplan.com.
I hope it works as well for you as it has for me. Good luck!
Just automatically start saving another 5% into a savings account and every couple months try to increase it. Save first and then spend...not the other way around.
When you get any significant amount seek financial help.
I would call the company in the morning and see if that will happen. If so maybe see if they can do something since you have never been late.
Chances are, even though 1 day late, you will be charged the interest to the account. The company that issued you the credit has not been making any money off of your account and it probably costs them more to keep the account open than the revenue that is brought in. If you call the financial institution they will be able to tell you if it was considered late.
In the future, I would recommend setting up automatic payments to at least have the minimum payment amount deducted automatically on the due date, just in case something comes up, such as family illness, travel or vacation.
It is very likely that you will get hit with all the accrued interest. That's how those no interest deals work.
I assume you paid online thru their website. In the future you may want to consider paying bills online thru your bank's billpay. Most banks offer it free of charge. You can schedule payment in advance of all your bills and even set up auto payment for recurring bills like rent or car payments. You have complete control and can change or delete payments up to a couple days before the due date.
Being 1 day later shouldn't effect your credit. I'd wait 60 days then request your free credit reports from annualcreditreport.com for on line or just call Tran Union toll free @ 1-877-322-8228 for all 3 free credit reports by mail.
Paul, it's great that you are thinking ahead. I would suggest you get a college credit card to start your credit rating, pay it off in full each month, Who knows what the housing market will be in LA in the next 4-5 years, right now apartments are going cheap. So get your credit life in order, graduate and the world will be yours. Best of luck to you.
I am glad you are thinking ahaead.
The housing in Bay area or LA basin is so expensive. It would take a lot of income to afford it.You could live in the cheap area, build up cash.
I want you to live in house that you could see as a blessed not nightmare. What I mean is, if the house is 600k, how much your income is 300k?
I want you to live in the place that you could enjoy your life. Not stressful to make end needs.
Did you learn any thing in the housing crisis in California, Nevada, Florida.
People buy houses that they can't afford. In the end, you are the one are hurting.
You are a smart guy. saving as much as you can, living under your mean,( find cheap place) , who care what people think. And Invest wisely. When opportunity knock, you could buy the house that you are able to enjoy, less mortage is the better.
Can you imagine living in America without house payment, car notes?
You live like a king, don't you?
I for one do not agree with the other answerers. Anyone who comes to Homedepot or Lowes always gets a honest answer. They have saved me tons of $$$. One nice person at homedepot even told me how to fix my garbage disposal without buying the pricy gadgets there were selling. You guys are the best. Can't speak much for the walmart workers though, they all look like they are trying to just stand around and do nothing.
At these places the raises are fixed, depending on how good you work. Most of these store pay above minimum (well maybe not Kmart), but they are jobs, for people who need a job. Would these people like to work at something with better pay? Sure, but those jobs in their career field don't exist anymore, and they rather put food on the table, instead of leeching off unemployment. So better come off your pedestal, because not everyone has a golden spoon in their mouth.
I second Ryan's post.
Believe me, in order to get paid a higher wage, you have to be worth that wage, and thus train for a specific thing, if you specialize in something you get higher wage, hence a career.
If you don't like the wage, get a REAL career. There is a reason why those types of jobs pay like that. You don't need an education or experience to do them! A trained monkey could work at WalMart or K-Mart.
uhm how did you think of something to search for?
Well, why not? They are necessities and they are very expensive. If Walmart can sell them for less then more power to them.
If there's a buyer, wal-marts the seller, I will start putting my money in that stock.
I'm dying to buy one!
Best wishes and meet me at the morgue.
1-800-775-5944
when you ask for in store delivery it should tell you when to expect it to be in the store for you to pick up. You have to pick up your purchase at the site to store location, which is located where layaway used to be.
First it's surprising how long it takes. but you will get an e-mail letting you know the item has arrived, for our last order there were 3 items all arrived on different days. we had to pick them up at the "site to store" desk wich as a previous answer said was where the layaway used to be.
They'll send you an email, and a receipt to take with you when you pick it up, and instructions.
They will call you when it arrives. You pick it up in the pickup area or room in the store.
I'm sure you'll get an email. Ask at the service desk.
I just want to add that the VIX is NOT a good forward indicator of market direction. The VIX itself is highly volalitile, in fact, much more volatile than the S&P 500, whose expected next 30-day volatility is measured by the VIX.
So just because the VIX shot up today, doesn't mean the market will crash soon. This has happened many times before in the past few months, and yet we made it all the way to here.
To quote directly from the Chicago Board Options Exchange, "The CBOE Volatility Index® (VIX®) is a key measure of market expectations of near-term volatility conveyed by S&P 500 stock index option prices. Since its introduction in 1993, VIX has been considered by many to be the world's premier barometer of investor sentiment and market volatility."
VIX tends to increase as markets fall, and decrease when markets rise. There is a very good reason why this is true (more on this below).
As every trader remembers, 2008 was a very volatile year for stock markets around the world, and the levels of implied volatility - as measured by VIX - increased dramatically as the market tumbled. A record closing high (at 81) was established during the worst of the market slide. That's why The VIX is referred to as "The Fear Index."
Today (October 30, 2009), the markets gave back all of yesterdays gains, with the Dow Jones Industrial Average falling 250 points. The VIX, went from 24.87 and close at $30.69, up 5.93 points or 23.95%.
Enclosed below is a link to the VIX (real-time quote) and the CBOE.
VIX does not indicate market direction, but rather, how much "confidence" do the investors have on the market by measuring the options on the stocks getting traded. if a lot of people are betting that market is going DOWN, VIX goes up, and vice versa. Of course the formula is a bit more complicated than that, but that's the gist of it.
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Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
Error, no keyboard - press F1 to continue.
Apple is more then likely authorizing your card for these transactions but not "charging" your card for the transactions. An "authorization" is like a hold on your account but after a few days pass, the money will be made available again. Gas stations and restaurants do it all the time. Call the 800 number on the back of your buxx.com card and they should be able to help you understand what the charges are. If my explanation is not correct, its is possible that Apple made an error in which case, you can file a "charge back" on the Visa buxx card and the money will be credited back to your account.
Well, there wont' be any fee of any sort charged on the end of Wells Fargo, I can promise you that. If you want to, you can charge a penny to your debit card, they are fee free on the bank's end. The only charge would be if 7-Eleven said they'll charge you a "convenience fee" if your purchase less than a certain amount. Firstly, they tack this on to your total, not the backend. Secondly, this is a violation of their merchant processing agreement, and 7-Eleven is too big to commit such a violation.
All in all, you won't be seeing any additional fees! Charge as little as you want. I hope this helps!
My rule of thumb has been if it costs under 20.00 don't use the card. You can't afford it.
It's from your state, not the federal govt. Unemployment insurance benefits are taxable income. In the US, all income from any source anywhere in the world is taxable. If you are a US citizen, Legal Permanent Resident, or even if you are temporarily living and/or working in the US (e.g. on an H1-b visa), worldwide income is taxable in the US.
If you are eligible for unemployment insurance in your state, you can have taxes withheld and your benefit check that you receive will be reduced by the amount of withholding taxes, both federal and state.
You must have lost your job through no fault of your own. You must have earned enough money and worked enough hours to have enough credits before you can get anything. If you are laid off during Oct, Nov, or Dec (4th quarter), then your benefits are usually calculated on what you earned from Oct 1, 2008 through Sept 30, 2009. Generally speaking, UI comes to about 1/2, maybe up to about 2/3, of your prior take-home pay, up to a maximum of somewhere around $500-600 per week. It varies by state. But if you took home, say, $800/week, you'll get around $400/week from UI for up to 26 weeks. You must be able to work, available for work, actively seeking work, and you cannot turn down any job offered.
If you were an independent contractor instead of an employee, or if you are on any sort of employment visa/work permit, you are not eligible for UI. Those on employment visas have their visas automatically revoked as of last day of work and must leave the US immediately with all dependents.
Unemployment benefits are based upon your wages in the base period. Your base period is the one-year period that ended with the first or second fiscal quarter prior to the date that you apply for benefits. Figure roughly 1/2 of the average weekly wage of the quarter in your base period that had the highest income. As a general rule you must have had at least 6 months of full-time employment in the year prior to applying for benefits.
You can review the procedures for your state's unemployment system on your state unemployment department's website. Google your state's name and "unemployment" to locate your state's site.
The Senate acted yesterday, however it still has to go back to the House to iron out various differences. My guess, look for something on the President's desk next week.
If you get another job, second employer will ask you to sign a form P46 to say that his is your main job. You can't do that, so he will automatically put you on code BR (Basic Rate) which means you will suffer a 20% deduction (1/5). However if you are in the 40% tax bracket, you should contact your current tax office, who will arrange for code D0 to be issued at second job.
If you do anything on a self-employed basis, you should register to get an annual Tax Return, with employment and self-employed pages. After completion, you will get a bill for extra tax, with instructions on when and how to make it. You can register on http://www.hmrc.gov.uk , and look at self-employed section.
Call HMRC and explain that you have either a second employment or you are also self-employed. Your employer would deduct tax if you are employed, or you fill in a self-assessment every year if not.
If the work in your spare time if for other companies then the tax will automatically be stopped. If it's not then contact the tax office who will send you a self assessment form.
There are lot of professionals you may seek for help. You may find on one this directory in your area if you are in London
You will be taxed using tax code 'BR' which means basic rate of 20%.
Go to your bank and ask. They will call the bank that issued the check to see if it's real and that the funds are there.
If you just deposit the check and use the money and then it doesn't clear. Your are the one responsible to pay back the money. Not the issuer.
The 419 Advanced Fee fraudsters rely on the fact that it's (almost) impossible to know if a cheque will clear or not.
Even if you ring the Bank and ask, all they will confirm is if the actual state of the account will cover the cheque 'today' (they will never tell you how much is in the account so you won't know if it's 'covered' 10 times over or 'covered' by 10p) ...
By the time the cheque arrives at the issuers bank the account may no longer have enough money .. or (worse) the cheque may be rejected as a fake / fraudulent (amazing what you can do with a PC, Adobe Photoshop and a simple printer)
If you are an eBay seller, wait for the check to clear (3-5 days) before sending the goods. If it's an 'international cheque, you will have to wait a few weeks or take a chance (now you know why a lot of eBay sellers refuse cheques).
There is no way to check - you just have to wait and see.
There used to be a cheque clearing service available to businesses but I don't think that exists any longer. But you had to pay for the service anyway.
Call the bank it is written from, and also, if you put it in your bank, and it bounces, chances are you'll get a fee to pay.
Hey suefitz,
You don't worry about the cheque, just deposit it into your account. If it would get bounced then the payee will be liable for penalties or may get sentenced by the court.
Im not sure but if it bounces the other person will get charged for it not you so I wouldn't worry just bank it!
enquire of the bank
There is frequently a a drop at the end of the year due to a lot of selling in December to book losses for tax reasons, but not "always".
The during the last two weeks of September the markets have lost money when you combine the results from almost any twenty year period. Some years the market is up during this time.
Try this for starters:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesco_Finan…
Termination of an agreement is when the agreement has lapsed, ended or been canceled with mutual consent.
Discharge of the agreement is when the purpose of the agreement has been either served and been fulfilled or the court has given a judgment that it is no longer necessary.
Void is when one party has violated or was not capable of meeting the terms and condition of the agreement.
Termination means it comes to an end.
Discharge of an agreement means the judge says it no longer applies.
And voided, means something one of the parties did, means it never took place in the first part.
None at all, assuming that this was a gift. Gift taxes are paid by the donor, never the recipient.
You, on the other hand, would owe a pretty substantial gift tax, on the order of $780,000 or so.
Additionally this would wipe out the unified exclusion on your estate, so your Estate Tax exclusion would drop by $1,000,000 which could significantly increase the tax that your estate would pay when you died.
Congress writes the laws, the IRS just enforces them. The IRS could honestly care less what is taxable and what is not. The purpose of gift and estate taxes is to keep wealth moving so that it does not stagnate among a privileged few, as it did in the 1800s and early 1900s. TFTP. Report Abuse
She wouldn't owe anything. You would likely owe gift taxes. The amount would depend on how much else you have given her in the past. No matter what, you would have to file Form 709 by April 15th in the year following the gift.
I hope this helps.
Gary
She wouldn't owe any taxes on it. You would though - a gift tax.
Take comfort in that there is no great problem here. Your situation is quite common.
At the moment your first job is regarded as your main job. You filled in form P46 at second job correctly. What you need to do is get tax office to swop records around. You can only do this by contacting tax office. There are two alternatives then. You can either have all main personal tax-free allowance at current second job, or ask for second job to be "coded out". The latter would be my suggestion, because it would mean first employer could carry on not deducting tax, and there is less likelihood of underpayment/overpayment at end of tax year. When you swop allowances completely around, because tax office don't know employer' dates of payment or pay/tax position in-year, it is likely there will be a discrepancy at end of year.
I would suggest you ask for your allowance of £6475 to be split as £2600 (code 260T) at first job, and the balance of £3875 (code 387T) at second job. The first employer would not then budget uprate there, but second employer will, so you will continue to get your full allowance when there are any allowance changes. If you ever get a rise on £50 wage, you can always ask tax office to adjust. Second employer can then make any refund due to you with first wage after code number issue.
There is no fraud here, you are the one being taxed to excess. If you quit either job, or start another, keep tax office up to date, and staff will suggest any other code number amendments.
NB. To elaborate on other answers. If you signed form P46 at first job, that employer may not be acting illegally. He is not obliged to make any deductions from you on that level of income. You may need some documentary evidence of wages paid from him at end of year, either form P60 (although that may not be appropriate if you are not on form P35, but on form P38 instead on end of year return) or else a signed letter on headed paper giving wage details.
You will have to quit the bike shop if you don't want to commit fruad, as by not declaring it that is exacly what you are doing. You are entitled by law to a payslip.
You would need to speak to the tax office to get your tax code corrected - your temp agency will tell who the refernece and tel number for their particular office.
By ticking box C this has become a secondary income, you need to tell the tax office this is to be the primary.
Being paid cash in hand is illegal. Your (and that employer) need to sort things out by declaring this income to HMRC and paying proper tax etc. Because the first job is low paid you may end up paying too much tax overall. In which case you will be able to apply to get it back after next April. Alternatively, if it looks like the temp job will be paying you a lot more you could switch so that is your main job.
If you decide to keep the first job as cash in hand, you need to go back to the second employer and tell them that it is in fact your only job. You will eventually get put onto the proper tax code and will get your overpaid tax back. But beware, you will be in a lot of trouble if the tax man catches up with you.
Please take a deep breath. Before I started preparing taxes, I too would have been desperate and worried in your situation. But, the IRS is usually pretty understanding in situations like this, as long as you do your best to keep on top of it. (And we are not talking about fraud or gobs of money.)
As your CPA has told you, you will need to file an income tax return for 2007. If these stock sales are your only income then the information you will need is:
1) What stock was sold, how much it was sold for, when it sold. This information is all going to be on a 1099-B form from the broker who sold the stock. It is probably also included on the forms the IRS has sent you.
2) When was the stock purchased and how much was paid for it. If the stocks were bought from the same broker who sold them, they can usually provide this information to you. You should also put your anger in check and ask your parents if they have this information.
Also, has your CPA explained that when the IRS sends a letter about stock sales, they calculate tax on the whole amount that was received from the stock sale. Once you work with the CPA to complete an accurate return, your tax will only be calculated on the amount that was made on the stock - the difference between what the stock was sold for and what was paid for it. Since it sounds like these stocks were only owned for 6-8 years, unless your parents were very lucky with their investment choices, the taxes on the profits will turn out to be much less than the taxes that the IRS has calculated on the gross proceeds.
You have a CPA so it is probably best to talk to him, but if you want more advice from this forum, it would be helpful if you gave more details such as how much money is involved. If we are talking about a small amount by IRS standards less than $5000-$10,000, it may be possible that your parents did not realize that you needed to file a return.
To TaxLady: FYI-The 8867 is the paid preparer's checklist for clients claiming the EIC credit.
Your tax person should know that a schedule D for a sale of stock owned by you would not be on your parents' tax return.
First of all, are the proceeds less than $1,600? If so, then just file and pay the minimal amount of tax. Not worth doing any of the following. However, if the proceeds are more than that, and the tax is going to be substantial as defined by you, then you have to do the following:
1. Get the 1099B either from the broker or from the IRS. Call the broker, or go to irs.gov to find out how to request the forms. The 1099B info may actually be in the letter(s) you have received.
2. The 1099B will show the proceeds. Find out when the stock was purchased. If the broker doesn't have the buy price, go to Yahoo Finance and find the buy price by looking up the stock and then going into the historical prices.
3. File a tax return with your own Schedule D. My guess is that you will owe little or no tax.
4. If you owe tax, and your capital gains are more than about $1,600, there is a further complication because you are subject to Kiddie Tax, meaning some of your tax is figured on your parent's rate. You would need to get some info from your parents at that point. However, since your parents qualified for EIC, this should not cause a big tax bill.
5. Check with that brokerage firm to see if you have any other assets. Move them into your own account, maybe at another brokerage place.
This isn't really that complicated for a good tax person to sort out for you.
Finally, since you mentioned it, don't get mad at your parents about money. Chances are they bailed out of the stock because of market conditions. Chances are that it is a minimal amount, you just pay the tax of $100 or less, and it's over.
This likely not as much of a problem as you are thinking. However it will take some work to get everything straightened out. The notices you received from the IRS assumed that the stocks had a zero basis which is likely not the case. You need to find out what stocks they are concerned about. That is normally on the notice you received if not you can get a transcript of the information reported to the IRS in your name for 2007. Once you find out what stocks they are concerned about, ask your parents when they purchased them and from whom. If they do not have the purchase price there are a number of sites on the internet where that information is available. Once you know the sale price and date and the purchase price and date you just file a return for 2007 with a Schedule D and it is very likely that there will be very little if any tax due. This is a very routine matter if handled properly.
Your parents made a mistake - that's not a reason to be furious at them, sounds like the were trying to save for your college expenses but didn't know how to handle it.
That said, the accountant needs to know what your parents paid for the stock. If that's totally impossible to get, he or she might be able to work from knowing when they were purchased.
You do need to file, but might not owe as much as the IRS letter says, since you subtract the purchase price from any gain.
You have a CPA! Anyway. You need to contact the brokerage where your stocks where held and get all the regular and tax statements pertaining to the account. You should be able to get these online. You also need to ask your parents for their complete tax returns going back to when they started selling the stocks. It is quite possible that you will not owe any money but the IRS assumes that if you do not tell them the purchase price of a stock that you sell, the purchase price is zero and thus maximizes the tax owed. You need to sit down with your parents and sort this out.
Your CPA was hoping that your parents had mistakenly filed the schedule D on *their* return even though the stock was in your name. No such luck. Presumably this was a college account. (By the way, on that litany of forms, there is *no* 8867. If you meant 8863, I hope there were two students in your household.)
What you need are the records from the account showing what the cost of the stock was. Without the records, he's in the same boat the IRS is, he doesn't know what the cost basis. If he puts down $0, you will owe more than you should. If he can get enough records to prove the stocks were owned by you for more than a year, he can at least reduce the total bill by using the long term capital gains rate.
As a dependent, in 2007, you could only have $850 of income before owing income tax.
So, go back to the 1099-Bs (the CPA can get them from the IRS if you don't have them) and CALL the firm listed. Demand the records from 2007 and any earlier ones they can give you.
Again, if you can show you owned the stock before 2006, this can help. If I buy my stock through my brokerage firm, they even print the cost basis on the year end statement--it's just not something they pass on to the IRS.
The lady at the bank is correct. If you work as an employee, your tax for the money you earn is deducted each pay period. This will be shown on your pay slip.
When you have tax withheld, at the end of each financial year you lodge a tax return and based on your total income and any deductions, you will get either a refund, or a bill to pay if your income is higher than estimated. This is called the Pay As You Go system, and is usually known simply as PAYG.
If you work as an employee, you're on TFN.
Tax will be withheld by your employer (as per the PAYG table) weekly, forthnightly or monthly from your pay.
At the end of the year, your tax payable or return payable will be:
Taxable Income = Total Income (earned/interest income) - Less Deductions (work expenses etc.)
Tax Payable/Return = Taxable Income - Tax withheld (or tax already paid)
Businesses however work differently, they have to forward the tax withheld from you to the government, as it is not their money.
No.
Dear lalavee: You are on the right track. Enter the $45K and also the amount the company will hold out for tax. If possible I believe it would be better to take the buy out next year if that is an option.
Go to www.hrblock.com and try their free calculator it is a bit more user friendly.
There are some year end strategies you could possibly employ, but I don't know your situation well enough to advise.See if you can get a free consultation before the nd of the year.
This advice was prepared based on our understanding of the tax law in effect at the time it was written as it applies to the facts that you provided. Click on my profile to read more. Errol Quinn Enrolled Agent
They'd probably take out 25% for federal income tax from the severance.
If you get another job next year, you might not be better off putting off getting the severance until 2010 as the other responder suggested.
Take it as deferred payout. It's still severance pay and will not affect any claim you have on getting unemployment.
There is absolutely no guarantee that you will find work anytime soon. If you take the entire amount in 2009, you will be paying higher and higher tax brackets--for the IRS side, going from $57,000 to $92,000 as single/no kids the entire amount would be taxed at 25%. (This would match the withholding on that one check.)
If you defer the $45,000 to 2010 and *do not* find another job, you start the tax year over again and have access to the 0%, 10%, and 15% tax brackets, putting another $5000 in your pocket...and limit your ability to burn through the money too fast because you won't have it yet.
If you defer the $45,000 to 2010 and do find another job, it works just like if you got the money now, but the tax is deferred to 2010. (If you get another job, assume the $45K is at 25% and put extra money aside.)
Your income is too low for FICA/MC issues to come into play. (My income was higher than yours. I opted for the lump sum, didn't find a job and while I paid less in FICA/MC--meaning my tax bill was more of a wash--I lost a year's earnings history with the social security administration. I will have a $30 month *smaller* social security check when I retire.)
Usually the recruiter's contract is with the employer, not you. He will be in touch with the employer (if I understand your question correctly). He certainly may be back in touch with you as well, and at that time you may want to mention that you're pursuing contract work with this employer.
Often companies use a particular agency for recruiting in an on going basis. They communicate freely and the recruiter won't get ripped off. It's a good question, though ... shows good business ethics.
Finally, I'll just mention that if this is a super job you may want to consider at least a temporary relocation. Great jobs are scarce right now. Once you're in the position you can use your own creativity to figure out how you can do the job from your preferred location. I'm just saying.
You call options will be adjusted using the ratio method by the OCC. The exact adjustment method would have to be announced by the OCC themselves. Read more about options and stock splits in the link below.
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No, the underlying option adjusts to match the stock.
If the reverse split was 1 for 4, you will have 47.5 contracts instead of 190.
Ain't ever no free lunch in the world of finance & money.
Ahhhh!!! Don't steal in Walmart! My friend did several years ago in southern Illinois and I was unfortunately with her (though I did not steal) and I got banned for an undetermined time. But now living in Chicago, I go to Walmart all the time but do not steal nor do I go with anyone who does steal.
You know if you've been caught by their security approaching you and handcuffing you in front of everyone.
well usually i would think they would tell you if they caught you and unless they say "you can't come back here ever again i think you can"
Yes, You talk about a lot of people
Bill gates, Micheal Dell, Steve Jobs. They are all billionaire
Yes. I am in Jacksonville, Florida and majority of them do.
Under Money Lending Act, the interests must not be more than 24% per annum for an unsecure loan.
I am Mrs Amy John,currently living in texas,USA.I am a widow at the moment with three kids and i was stuck in a financial situation by may 2009 and i needed to refinance and pay my bills.I tried seeking loans from various loan firms both private and corporate but never with success,and most banks declined my credit.But as God would have it,i was introduced to a man of God a private loan lender by name Mr Endurance Dawn who gave me a loan of $28,000USD and today am a business owner and my kids are doing well at the moment.So dear,if you must contact any firm with reference to securing a loan with low interest rate of 3% and better repayment plans and schedule,please contactMr Endurance Dawn.He doesn't know that am doing this but am so happy now and i decided to let people know more about him and also i want God to bless him more.You can contact him through his email at endurancelendingfirm@gmail.com
Yes
Annuities are best suited to older folks looking for a bit of security in their investment life.
At 18 you have 40 years give or take to withstand the ups and downs of the market. Find a financial adviser that can help you put together an aggressive portfolio. Begin dollar cost averaging (buying the same $ amount each month) and stick with it.
If you earn any income you can open a Roth IRA, otherwise open a T.O.D. account.
The most valuable asset on your side is time. Have fun with it
Annuities is something old people do when they realize they are losing their minds and get scared about handing their own money.
Open a discount brokerage account and start investing.
Also open a ROTH ira, and put 5K in it a year.
/
Variable Annuities are major rip off's.
Any other annuity is not appropriate for a young person.
Stocks &/or Stock Mutual Funds can be purchased without any
interest costs.
READ: Mutual Funds For Dummies
Maybe. By putting $179 into a $50k policy you're actually over funding the saving portion of the vehicle which is smart (but, I'm guessing because if you bought it in your 50's then you're not - so maybe scratch that thought).
Consult your insurance broker/financial advisor. You could potentially put the existing policy into an annuity so you could protect either the taxable position that the policy is in OR so you don't forgo any loss that's in there. If there's a loss and you just cancel it then you get no economic benefit from that loss.
Then using the funds to fund an IRA could be smart. Ignore the 'dump it and get term" because they obviously don't understand.
While it is true that term life is cheaper than a variable policy when you're looking at getting at the two policies out of the gate, it's not necessarily true when talking about an existing policy.. However, when you've owned a variable policy for a long time you're already past the heavy charges so from this point forward the rate of return is much much greater. You have to do the math and not shoot from the hip.
I have a variable universal life policy that costs about $14 a month in insurance charges. It'd be foolish to cancel that as that less than what term life policy would cost me, but I didn't buy it yesterday.
Be careful when cancelling a life insurance policy!
There are several things that needs to be considered. Like is there a surrender charge that will eat up most of the value in the policy? And, you might ask the insurance agent or company for an illustration showing if you make no more payments into the policy how long the policy will last. You might just want to stop making payments and let the money already in the policy pay the premiums and let it run itself out and then start paying the $179 a month into something else.
This variable life policy is not a good investment plan but you might let it run itself out with no future payments into it and open a real investment plan and put your money into that.
Call your insurance agent or company for investment advice. Insurance agents are usually not licensed to sell variable products.
Life insurance is a financial tool; used to replace your income if those who depend on you need financial assistance. It doesn't sound like anyone is dependent upon your income. Unless you have another reason for the insurance it would probably be a good idea to cancel it and contribute the money to your retirement. You will also get some money back; look at your statement and where it states "surrender value" is the amount you'll receive.
You do NOT have a variable TERM life policy at that price.
So. What is the GOAL of the insurance? If you had no insurance today, would you BUY some? What do you want it to DO for you?
If you have no goal for the life insurance to acheive, then no, don't keep the policy. If you have a goal you want it to acheive, then start shopping around for a better price, AFTER you've clearly defined the goal.
Life insurance is a crappy savings/investing tool. It's a great DEATH PLANNING tool.
Set the goal. Then decide if you need it or not.
$179/mo is pretty steep for only $50k of coverage. The whole point of life insurance is to make sure your spouse and children would be taken care of if anything happened to you. Your children are old enough to take care of themselves, your spouse is in good financial shape? I would say cancel it.
Yes, dump it in the morning, if not sooner. You can get term life at many places for a lot less, alot less.
Dump it
i say go for it use the money and have fun while your alive
Everyone here is correct - YES! The earlier you start, the better off you'll be. Your long-term goal should be to contribute 15% of your salary (the annual maximum contribution is $16,500). If you can't swing that right now, just contribute whatever you can, and be sure that you increase your percentage every time you get a raise.
If your company matches your contributions, you should AT LEAST contribute enough to get the maximum company match. That is free money, and you don't want to leave any of that on the table!
I hope that helps - good luck!
YES. The younger a person starts, the better. You want to take advantage of the COMPOUND interest that grows with more time (years). Also, with your 401k plan, your employer should have some matching program, so you want to take advantage of that too, for every dollar you contribute up to a certain %, your employer will match it; so in essence FREE money for you. And at 24 starting a 401k you'll be well on your way towards retiring comfortably. Good luck!
Yes it is a great idea! If they match it is even a better idea. In a very few cases some small companies have 401K's with loads and fees. In that case I would avoid the 401K.
A couple of articles to assist you are below.
1-you have to start sometime - social security will never be enough to live on in retirement
2- if they offer matching - that is FREE MONEY - I have gotten over $13,000 in FREE matching funds from my company just in the last 3 yrs
Short answer: yes.
Longer answer: yes and make sure you add the maximum contribution, especially when your employer matches it.
yes!, and you need to start doing more on money savings like ira, and savings and stuff!!!! im 19 and started all theses things im trying to retire at like 40
I bet she answers her e-mail before she does the phone.Send her a email, good luck hope you get the job.
send the email
email her first. if nothing call tomorrow . good luck!
Hmmm if you develop cancer 6 months from now and your medical bills are $200,000 a month do you think that you would still act so ridiculous and pretend as if the insurance doesn't cover anything because you cant get lab/x-rays covered ???? Wow The most important part of insurance is that it is supposed to cover you if something major happens not if you have a couple of $200 tests.
Right. With health insurance, you get EXACTLY what you pay for. Want more coverage? Then you have to pay more. Cheap coverage = cheap plan. Period. There's no "magic" plan that gives you $1000 a month coverage for $50. It doesn't exist.
My suggestion, is plug in all your medical expenses from LAST year, and figure out which way will cost you less, if you do the same thing this year that you did last year.
Hi
Claim process is designed and governed by IRDA, if there is a issue with the claims, you can approach Ombudsman. Insurance industry is very closely regulated by government so nobody can deny you a claim. Any company that denies or delay's claims will hit their ISO, and Quality credentials. So whatever is mentioned in the policy document, companies will adhere to it.
While buying a health insurance, you should think and check for the following.
1. coverage amount : Will it remain same as inflation increases and you become older, or will it increase with inflation and your age, without actually increasing the premium.
2. Exclusion : What is covered and what is not covered. There are obviously medical expenses like testing, opd which are not covered. Does your insurance gives you some option to reimburse for expenses like this as well.
3. Premium Payment Term : How long should you pay, and how long will you be covered, is there any flexibility.
4. Return on investment : If you dont claim, will you get your money back.
Write to me if you have any question, on health insurance or any other type of insurance.
If you are looking for a private medical insurer than I would go for a company which does the processing of the claims at the local office. It would be best to go for a government insurance company since they have local claims settling authority. New India or United India. These companies have grievance departments also where you can appeal if you have any issues.
As far as my experience is related never ever go for any PRIVATE COMPANY.
go for Government Company there are 4 co's.
1. ORIENTAL INSURANCE
2. NATIONAL INSURANCE
3. UNITED INDIA INSURANCE
4. NEW INDIA INSURANCE
thanks
NEVER EVER THINK OF RISK IN YOU LIFE........ forget PAST and don't thing much about FUTURE only LIVE IN PRESENT.
As your HARD earned MONEY must be invested in SAFE HANDS and LIC OF INDIA is the safest hands to invest in.
BEFORE INVESTING please read the following: -
Following are very risky investment avenues and should be avoided for further capital erosion.
1. SHARES & MUTUAL FUNDS: Very very risky market full of speculators, even the company CEO and Directors are not aware why the stock prices are falling or going up
2. PROPERTY & LAND: Prices are way high and there is no government control over it. Current property prices in India are 68% higher as compared to other developed countries like USA and UK.
3. BANK FIXED DEPOSITSs: Interest earned is Taxable and principal amount is guaranteed only up to 1 lakh in case the bank goes Bankrupt as per "Our Finance Minister"
4. GOLD, SILVER & COMMODITIES : Gold is also too risky but it is much safer than Shares.
5. FOREX TRADING: Many of you may not even know what forex trading is? It means trading in currencies.
only 1 company (LIC of India) you can TRUST, who will honor all its commitments and it has more than $163 billion assets.
LIC Of India has various policies to suit your needs where we can give:
* Risk Cover * Guaranteed returns
* Tax Benefits * Regular income
* Free insurance * Accidental risk cover
* Insurance for senior citizens till age 75
* Fixed deposit with risk cover and loan facility
* Peace of mind forever
My appeal is do not take any drastic step if you are caught in a financial crisis. According to Indian Law If you are in a financial crisis you can pay your party in installments spread over a period of years.
I am Life Insurance Corporation of India's authorised Insurance Agents. If you are looking for LIC Investment plan, Life Insurance, LIC Term plan, LIC endownment plan,
Always take Advice before taking any Insurance or Investment.
Thanks & Regards,
SACHIN SAHNI
LIC Consultant, BM Club Member, {Gold Medalist}
Mob:9899633555 email:sachin.123.lic@gmail.com
---DOOR STEP SERVICE (Delhi & NCR)---
the only thing i saw was some kid's pajamas. I was wondering the same thing and I called Kmart and talked to someone and she said there isn't much available right now but they will be updating to include more items in the next week or so. Although she did say there were alot of toys available but I couldn't find one single toy with the layaway option!!
just go to the store
Do the words "royal pain" come to mind here, or perhaps just careless?
Because the postman was lazy.
I got one of those as well,Recycle bin is where the card is now.
I got the same. Just go to your local collections office. There's a package/letter waiting for you
That's a scam. Don't pay it!
Believe it or not, people are (typical of people) afraid of the economy, which has given much rise to the value of gold. Just about a month or two ago, the value of one share in an amount of gold went from around a couple hundred of dollars to $1k+. A lot of people just made thousands of dollars in the gold sector.
All in all, precious metals (gold, etc.) are a good thing to invest in right now.
I hope this helps!
I am not clear exactly as to how you propose to invest your money.
Trough a broker or on you own?
Any way If you desire to be on your own than may I suggest SCOTTRADE.COM
You can open a trading account for $500 and start buy and sell immediately.It will cost you $7 to buy and $7 to sell no other charges period.
Go to their site read the documentation and get started.
Energy would be a good sector to try.
Personally I buy and sell Googl stock. You need to know what you're doing and even then there are no guarantees.But it is fun .DO IT!!
By the way in case you wanted to know how to make a million dollars in the stock market,
Simply start with two.
m.k.
what if your money made you 1 - 10% or 10% to 200% per month
with no risk at all,what if you dont need to work and just enjoy life
what if you can watch your wealth growing while you are having fun
visit myfxfunds.com and hsfxasset.com
The formula is P*(1+i/12)**number of periods. In this cases 12 * 5 = 60 periods. i/12 = .003333333
30000* (1.00333333)**60 = 36,629.89 less taxes, which must be paid annually.
Try this site: http://tinyurl.com/no7vh7 you can make money and it’s easy to do. There you can invest in gold and it pays every month. Also buy placer gold by ounces. If you need any help or instructions on how to use the site email me hans7732001@yahoo.com or call me at 281-954-5282.
what if your money made you 1 - 10% or 10% to 200% per month
with no risk at all,what if you dont need to work and just enjoy life
what if you can watch your wealth growing while you are having fun
visit myfxfunds.com
hsfxasset.com
hgnfx.com
please search for hyip calculator on the internet.
You repaired your relative's house and rented it, and your relative is letting you keep the rent.
One way to do this is,
1. The rent is the owner's income, the repairs are the owner's expense. Give her a statement of rent received and repair you have made and be done with it. How she accounts for it is her issue, not yours.
2. The repair is the service you provided in exchange for the rent payments being assigned to you.
So, I would file taxes showing that you received payment for repairs made to the house you did not own. Do this on a Schedule C, with the business activity "House Repair." Show all the rent monies you received as payment for services rendered. Show the repairs you paid for as contract labor, show materials and supplies on their separate line. You cannot deduct your own time.
You should get a written agreement from her stipulating that you will have control of the asset for rental purposes. Have you considered purchasing the property from her? Once you get the agreement, you can claim the repairs and the rental income as a sub-let or as a property manager
It's not your property. It's hers.
She has to declare the rental income, expenses and payments she made to you. You, in turn, declare that income as self-employment expense.
if you receive the income and pay the expense, you can include all on your tax return. BUT
why would you want to?
you cannot depreciate what you do not own and that is the big deduction
Idk - but I'll bet the Bank has a dozen good reasons.
Some of the functions will be: preparing manager's time schedule, filtering phone calls, preparing contracts, arranging most manager's meetings, lot's of paperwork and many others small tasks
You know those poor people that someone yells at when they want talk to the manager because their reservation got screwed up or you don't have the big mini van avialable and you have to bus them somewhere else to get one? You're it.
Well, when it's with the same company, it's all about policy retention - if you have both your auto and homeowners with the same company/agent, you're more likely to renew them both, with the same company. If you only have one, the other agent is going to try to take that other policy from you.
Regarding a homeowners discount for homeowners, that really is a loss ratio thing. If you can be responsible enough to manage to own a home, then that responsibility generally translates into driving slightly more responsibly, or at least having fewer claims dollars paid out.
You CAN get the credit just as equally, though, with a RENTERS policy as with a homeowners policy. Usually, that credit is a percentage of the premium.
Insurance companies don't worry about how, or why, there are fewer claims with home ownership - just like they don't worry about how or why with credit scores, marital status, gender, etc. The how or why isn't relevant. All that's relevant, is that there is a direct corrolation between those items, and claims. The reasons behind it are irrelevant.
"How does the probability of accident or other loss decrease with home ownership?"
This is the wrong question. Auto insurance is priced on correlations rather than causations. There appears to be a correlation between lower loss costs on auto insurance for people who have homeowners insurance when compared with the entire cohort of people with auto insurance.
Credit cards have better fraud protection. It is actually suggested that you "never" use a debit card online, as they can clean out your checking account.
Both debit and credit cards usually have protection against fraudulent charges. Sometimes it takes months for these to be resolved though. My debit card is tied to my checking account. I depend on this for my basic needs. Being without the money for a couple of months would be a disaster. It may also cause me to bounce checks while the bank is trying to figure it out.
I always use my credit card for online purchases. If you pay your balance in full at the end of the month it doesn't cost any extra.
Credit card is the better way to go. If there's a problem, it's just a little of your line of credit tied up. Use a debit card and it's actual money out of your bank account. It's also easier to get credit cards to process disputes quickly.
Credit card, with a debit card if someone steals your information they have access to your bank account.
credit card definitely
Your cost basis will be allocated across multiple years, the amount above that will be taxable.
It sounds like you're talking about an expense, not a source of income. In that case, the question should be is it deductible, partially deductible, or non-deductible.
Did they say it issued today? If thats the case & you elected to receive the refund directly into your bank account. Your refund should be in your account tomorrow, If you are receiving a cheque you have to wait for the postie.
Mainly to ensure compliance with a set of known rules.
From investopedia:
http://www.investopedia.com/terms/f/fdic…
Here is the history of the FDIC:
http://www.investopedia.com/articles/eco…
Also look at the Emergency Banking Act of 1933
http://www.investopedia.com/terms/e/emer…
Also wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FDIC
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It was created after the crash at the beginning of the Great Depression. It stops banks from failing because people think they;re going to fail and draw all their money out, which actually causes a failure of an otherwise sound bank. Now people don't rush to withdraw because their deposits are insured.
Many cover one or both home health & skilled nursing. However, if covered your cost sharing will be vastly different between plans as is the qualifications for the services. Some will cover hospice but that coverage is less common.
No, health insurance of ANY kind, including HMO, does not cover assisted living or skilled nursing. You need long term care coverage for those.
Many of them WILL cover hospice care, though - but it's usually for a very short period of time, like two weeks or less.
Home Health Care isn't covered in a skilled nursing facility. You'd need a long term care policy to cover non-skilled services in a nursing home.
it because you didnt register the card on the gift card website
read this aritlce it explain the problem with gift card and how to solve this problem
Using Visa or American Express Gift Cards to Shop Online
question.jpgOne of the most asked gift card questions, particularly on Yahoo Answers is whether you can use a Visa or any other bank issued gift card (American Express, Discover, or MasterCard) to shop online. The answer is yes.
However, there are additional steps you have to take to prevent your card from being rejected by the merchant. The problem with using Visa (or any other bank issued) gift card online is that there is no verifiable name and address associated with the card. When buying things online, most merchants want your name and billing address to match the name and address you have on file with your card (credit, debit, or bank gift card) issuer.
Therefore, before you use your Visa or other bank issued gift card, call the merchant/financial institution that issued the card or go to their website and add your name and address to the card. This will ensure that when you use the card online, the name and address you provide to the merchant for billing will match the name and address on file for the card. Once you have registered your card, you can use it online just like you would use a regular credit card.
If your information (name and address) has changed since you registered your Visa gift card, call the card issuer or go online and update your information before you use the card online.
yes
Well for that you should see http://biznuss.net
i hope that resolve your problem keep using answers.yahoo.com
it should have told u where the destination was, if u haven't gotten it yet, call them
Your husband can call FMS and see if his SSN is flagged due to child support.
1-800-304-3107.
If his SSN is flagged and you file jointly without a form 8379, the entire refund will go to child support. If you add form 8379, the IRS will review your income and his and allocate the refund between you. His part will still go to her.
Dear Jess: Always pay with a check and keep copies of the cancelled ones to prove that you/he paid. If there is a court date it is imperative that he is represented.
The $6,000 back support does not automatically go to his ex she must apply for the back payments and if her claim is upheld she will get his refund. You can protect your refund with the injured spouse form, but his refund will go for the back payments.
This advice was prepared based on our understanding of the tax law in effect at the time it was written as it applies to the facts that you provided. Click on my profile to read more. Errol Quinn Enrolled Agent
if there is an order from the state for the back support, yes, any refund will be withheld
and yes, she will be paid the money
apparently you are not concerned about any portion that is your refund since you already have paid some of his delinquent support for which you need to have documented proof of payment(your canceled check)
however, in your case if you would like to get your refund back(if there is one) you could file married separately.
If the Child Support Enforcement Agency that is managing his case submits the debt to FMS for capture then his tax refund will be captured to offset the debt.
If he's making payments on time the CSEA may not submit it to FMS but it's strictly their call whether to submit it or not. A change in case manager could trigger a referral next week; there's simply no way to predict this. Even if he's not flagged now, he could be flagged next week, next month, or a week before you file your tax return.
Not showing up in court to defend oneself never works in your favor. Had he or his attorney been there with copies of the canceled checks, the ex would have been made the fool. But since he was not there to defend himself, her word would be taken largely as fact.
You can attach a Form 8379 to your joint return to protect YOUR share of any refund, however if his SSN has been flagged when the return is filed his share will be taken and forwarded to the CSEA and applied towards the debt. How much of any refund is yours and how much is his depends upon state law and how much income and tax withholdings you each contribute to the joint return. In a few states you'd be entitled to nothing. In a few more it would be half, and in the rest it would be a proportional share but no less than what you would have received had you filed separate returns.
This is becoming more standard in the credit card industry. As the previous answer states, credit lines would be evaluated from time to time and could be an indication of something appearing on your credit report. You may want to pull a free copy of your credit report at www.annualcreditreport.com to make sure there has been no occurring your credit report. Things such as high balances compared with your credit line, increased debt quickly over a short period of time and even multiple inquiries for requesting credit can effect this.
Creditors are doing this routinely now. Once an account falls below a certain threshold it is reevaluated to determine if it is a risk. While your credit score may have allowed for a 3K line of credit 2 years ago, it may not qualify for it now. You can usually argue your way out of a fee or even a higher interest rate, but I doubt you'll have any success getting your credit limit raised back. Just keep your payments on time so things don't get worse.
perfectly normal -take advantage of the wise economic decision imposed by the store. talk to your bank about a Visa debit card!
It depends on what "may" means. Payable to bearer means it is like cash money. If Fred found $100, may be keep it (and spend it)?
He physically could (he is the bearer), but it would be stealing. Legally, he has to make a reasonable effort to return it to the rightful owner. In most places, that means reporting it to the police, or advertising it.
The correct legal answer is "c".
a. is correct. If an instrument is "payable to bearer", it is also known as a "bearer instrument" and can thus be redeemed by the person possessing it.
Dear M: Pro: Generates money Con: Another tax
May encourage people to make their own wine.
If hard liquor and beer are taxed, why not wine?
Assuming your in the UK....
Banks are now very careful about looking into accounts that appear suspicious from viewpoint of money laundering / potentially funding proceeds of crime. Banks create rules about opening accounts and ID verification and validation to deter would-be criminals. These rules may mean that banks will not wish you to open an account of this nature - despite your best intentions.
Easy solution
(1) Have your friends pay into your bank account and simply set up a direct debit (DD) to pay straight from there into the charity bank account.
or
(2) i ) Open a new bank account in your name only and set up a DD to pay into the charity of your choice. ii) Next - get your friends to DD monies into your existing current account each month. iii) Next - set up a DD from your personal bank account into the new account to complete the circle.
Either of these will avoid most problems with setting up the new account. However - small trasfer sums between accounts are often routinely investigated anyway.
PS....The governmet have got nothing to do with it!
If your in another country - look for another answer!
Good luck
You should be able to do that no problem - just open a bank account and off you go. Someone will have to be responsible for it and probably have it in their name so will be liable for any charges.
Talk to the charity - see if they can accept part donations for one sponsored orphan from several people - it might be easier that way
So long as the recipient is a registered charity I can't see why it should be queried. You open a current account in your name. Your friends pay into it any way they wish, cash, standing order etc. You set up a standing order or diect debit to the charity. Voila! Can't see a problem. Your friends may wish to see a copy statement from time to time. But if it's kosher you would volunteer this anyway.
It is never a good idea to open an account with friends. If it's only a small amount each month then the government won't really be interested in where it's coming from, but a joint account with friends is a really bad idea.
Use direct debit, from an account of where you and your friends invest money into. Direct Debit is the most safe, reliable and easiest 'paper-free' method to use!!
a. $3.25
b. 400 * (3.25 *3) + 6000 * 0.75
The reason you can not find them is because neither appears to have any preferred stock outstanding. Most companies do not. I checked the income statements on Yahoo finance and neither shows any preferred stock. yahoo might be incorrect. A more definitive source is the SEC filings. They are also found on Yahoo finance. Look for their 10k when you get there and look at their balance sheet. PEP did appear to have had some preferred stock in 2007 but it no longer shows.
yahoo finance is one source. If you search here in Answers, you will find that KO had no preferred stock as of 2007. Try a similar search for Pepsi.
check form 10-k www.sec.gov
Try the Michael Thurmond makeover diet. It's cheaper than surgery and I lost 15% of my body weight on the diet and I only had a BMI of 27. Lost 10 pounds in the first week alone. It's amazing what eating right and exercising do. Avoid dairy, avoid sugars, bread, etc...
It's either that or pay for the surgery out of pocket.
Yes, if you're overweight, it's a preexisting condition. If you're overweight enough to NEED lap band, you're most likely not going to get a private insurance company to accept you.
And if you're NOT morbidly obese, you're not heavy enough for major abdominal surgery that has a REAL chance of killing you, just from the surgery.
Sorry, but if you are a candidate for lap band, i.e. having a BMI greater than 40, you will be over the height and weight guidelines of every individual plan, which usually will not accept anyone with a BMI greater than 35. Your only option would be to get on a group policy through an employer. However, many group plans are removing the coverage from the plan.
I would like to suggest you get as much information as you could before taking action,here
http://www.HealthInsuranceIdeas.info
is a good place for that.
Relax. The IRS has rules regarding the need to file a tax return and your aunt is below the limits.
If it makes you feel better, you can look at the IRS website at www.irs.gov and look under individuals and their need to file which will confirm this. Neither her nor you will have any problems.
You should feel honored that you were asked to look after her finances. It show that you are well thought of and very trustworthy.
i agree that there is not a real problem here but you can call the irs 800 phone line and ask questions without telling them who you are...they don't ask for anything but figures...that way you can rest your mind. and they don't trace your call either...they have better things to do.
No problem, her income is well below the limit where she'd have to file.
So you don't have to do anything. Unfortunately by not filing she did miss a rebate a couple years ago, but it's too late now to get it.
more than likely she didn't need to file
you are talking about 19 years of not filing? in her papers you must have found a notice from IRS about unfiled returns? if not, she probably is beyond the filing requirement
With her income there's no need for her to file. Her income is WAY below the filing requirement amount. Her SS benefits are not taxable because her other income is so low. That leaves only the $2,880 annual pension as potentially taxable. That is still below 1990's filing requirement amount let alone today's filing requirement amount.
The IRS already knows about the income she's received and they would have contacted her long ago if they though that she might possibly owe anything.
Rest easy, there's NOTHING to worry about here!
Just as an FYI though, even if she owed the IRS "big bucks" they would not seize her home and put her on the street. They'd just issue a tax lien and wait for nature to take its inevitable course.
Most of the time, with decent neighborhood, The carrier may leave your package at the door.
So your package may get stolen. Or they may scan in the PO. in that case, your package may show up several days later.
Next time, with a little extra if the package is really important, using the Signature Confirmation so someone has to sign for it.
There's not a lot you can do, really. The same thing's happened to me twice. I actually got one almost a year after the post office said it had originally been delivered. I think they scanned the bar code, then it got lost somehow, and they found it later... the other one I never did get, but I wasn't home the day they said it was delivered so I don't know what happened.